I was wondering between the sugar glider wheels out there. Raptor, stealth, fast track and custom cruiser which one has the smallest cage mount for the side. Hope to hear from someone thank you everyone.

I have been looking for the same info! My cage only has room for a side mount. I have been looking at stealth and raptor, but neither one has returned my emails. I am anxious to replace my wodent wheels!

The regular side mount for a stealth wheel is VERY compact - it consists of a long bolt that goes through the wheel then a spacer that goes behind the wheel and two large washers and a nut to go on the end of the bolt out side the cage.

I use two nut drivers to attach the wheels - one on the head of the bolt to hold it steady and another to tighten the nut. Depending on where I locate the wheel in my cage I sometimes need one of my sons to hold or tighten because my arms cannot reach around the cage to reach both ends of the bolt at the same time.

The two washers - one on each side of the cage bars holds the wheel securely.

This mount is recommended only for cages with sturdy wires (like the HQ Brisbane, Madagascar or Congo cage). Flimsy thin wire cages may have wire break after prolonged use.

Their X mount I think is designed for cages that have the thinner wires distribute the weight of the wheel across more surface area.

I have had 6 stealth wheels - 2 in each of my 3 cages for over 5 years. They are still silent and the side mount attachment supports them quite well.

That's what I'm going I'm looking to replace my wodent wheels. I'm thinking of going with the fast track. I have the Brisbane cage from exotic nutrition that should be sturdy enough shouldn't it?

Candy covered the stealth wheel pretty well.

I also have had raptor, fast-track, CCC, and H-wheel.

For the raptor I don't have the side mount, so I can't tell you much about it; I however know they offer side mounts for both cages with vertical or horizontal bars, you will need to ask them the dimensions. For the CCC, Bourbon does not recommend a side mount, since this is a heavier wheel, that goes up and down, creating a lot of stress on the cage bars. Then for the Fast-Track wheel, the side mount is made pvc pipe that goes the diameter of the wheel (so it won't take more space than the wheel already requres by itself). Below you can find a link describing the mounts:

www.go-fast-track.com/catalog/item/8460382/9722192.htm

The the H-wheel has a clip on mount. Again, it goes the length of the wheel diameter. Here is a better picture of it:

www.humbertossugargliders.com/clipmount-001.jpg

Hope this is helpful

Yes very helpful I think I'm going to give the fast track wheels a try I've heard good things about them. Thanks guys

I have the raptor with side mount. It's basically as Candy described except that it has 4 bolts and washers rather than two. As long as I am mounting on the sides of the cage (after cleanings etc) I can usually get it on and off myself...with some interesting contortions. There is no way for one person to mount it to the back bay themselves.

ahhhhg! I am now more confused and frustrated than ever! I know everyone dislikes PP, but I bought my gliders, starter cages and wodent wheels from them almost three years ago and just recently discovered this site.
All of a sudden, my food is bad, my wheels are bad and my cages are bad! Some of that is going to take a while to change because of finances (retired means BROKE!)
I have been working on diet and researching wheels. I finally heard back from stealth and raptor and they both say only a baby wheel will work for my cages! My gliders don't want baby wheels! If my two pair got along I could get one bigger cage eventually, but they don't get along.
Sorry to vent. Does anyone have any inpt on my dilemma?

Why don't you try doing introductions again? Start slow though. The links found in here have good information on how go about it:

www.sugarglider.com/gliderpedia/index.asp?Introductions

www.petsugargliders.com/sgintro.php

It sounds like each pair only got what PP calls the "starter cage" which are fairly small. Usually sugar glider wheels are big, so they won't fit in these cages. So the best you can do for now is to try to get them a bigger cage (since you are already taking care of diet). If you can only get one big cage, then trying to introduce them would be the best next step.

The wheel you currently have it is not much safe for gliders, but since they haven't had issues as of yet you may be able to hold off a little longer to get a new wheel. Just keep it very well clean, and check it and the gliders everyday, make sure everything looks fine; and change it as soon as it is possible for you.

Cages are expensive yes, in relation to their other needs, but you may be able to find a used cage, that in in good condition. Try CL for example.

Just don't tense up so much, and take one step at a time. Now you are better informed and know better and have already started improving their conditions, that's what matter the most; but as with everything else, we must be considerate to ourselves, and know our limitations, you cannot do everything at once. Eventually you get them to the condition you want them to be, that is your goal. So hang in there glider momma! (I think you are a female, I am wrong, forgive me, I'll change my statement to glider papa if that is what is required )

A larger cage may actually be the solution to your difficulties with your gliders getting along. If you have a tiny cage, there may not be room for the gliders to get out of each other's way.

I would also suggest trying the introductions again - with lots of pouch and toy swapping first and even putting the gliders in the other glider's cage for several nights so they are both familiar with the other glider's scent.

If they get along when you do a face to face intro in a neutral location - and will go into the same pouch to sleep - then put them into a VERY CLEAN cage that does not have either glider's scent (a new large cage if you can get one, or a very well scrubbed cage)

Be sure to put their food in SEVERAL locations in the cage so neither glider can guard both bowls preventing the other from eating. Many fights with newly introduced gliders are over food.

If you can get them both into one of your small cages together - you might also use the parts of the two small cages to make ONE larger cage. Remove a top from one and bottom from the other and stack them. They can be secured to each other using zip ties. If there are any gaps, plastic garden mesh (black 1/2 inch squares) can be zip tied to cover any openings over 1/2 inch wide.

Wow, that would be great if i could put them all in one cage! I don't like having them seperate. Let me explain what happened. I started out with two girls and all was good. After a few months my ex asked me if I would watch his mated pair for a few days. Well, I did something that I now know was stupid, I put the pouch with his gliders in my cage. Before long I noticed one of my girls (Piper) had moved into the new pouch, which seemed sweet, at first. then she started picking on her old cage mate,Jelly. Whenever sweet Jelly came near the new pouch,Piper would chase her off. Before long they were rolling on the floor fighting visciously! I had to borrow a travel cage and seperate Piper and Jelly. Jelly had suffered a scratche eye, which clouded over, and a torn ear..

After my ex took his pair home and Jelly healed, I tried putting my two girls together again. Piper tore into Jelly right away so I had to keep them seperate and get a second cage. since then, I got two males (which I had neutered). Ever since, whenever a gilder escapes it runs to the other cage to start a fight. The two cages are side by side with a 5" gap between them. Sorry this is so long. Do you see any hope of reintroducing them?

So are Piper and Jelly still separated? What are the arrangements for your 2 boys? Are they together in the same cage, or are they with one of your females, or you have pairs of male/female?

In any case, I believe it may be possible to introduce them, but it could be hard. Try as many introduction methods as possible. That is fleece, toys, and cage swapping. Do whatever possible so they can't escape their cage (there are too many risks if that happens, not only the fights).

Usually it is after a while of swapping items, when you see them sleeping comfortably in the others' pouch, that you try to put the cage close to each other (not enough for them to reach). But you already have the cages next to each other, so I don't know how this will work for you. Maybe, at first try putting the cages in separate rooms, of if this is not possible, perhaps you could cover the cages in a way that they can' see each other, but there's still enough light getting through.

Then, when they can be next to each other without trying to grab the other, or crabbing at the other (barking is fine, is just their way of talking to each other), you could try 1-on-1 introductions, starting with your most docile 2. Do it in a bathtub, that way their are distracted because they don't have much grab on anything, and if they start a fight, it will also be easier to separate them. Introductions are usually done in a neutral area, so make sure there is nothing around that belongs to one or the other.

If this 1-on-1 introduction works out, without the balling up and fighting, you can try putting them together in either a new big cage, or one that has been well cleaned and keep them under close observation for the first week(s) or so (specially the first 1 or 2 days). Then when they have settle, you can try introducing them to a new glider. Again do it 1-to-1, and wait until the new addition seems comfortable with your bonded pair. Leave the most dominant for last, since by them it would have been lonely for a while, and would be in need to socializing, so he/she will be more accepting, and not so aggressive.

That is the best I can advice you, the entire process could take a couple of months, so be patient.

After I had to seperate Piper and Jelly I eventually got each one a male cagemate. The males are now neutered.
I do swap out their fleece and toys almost daily, and they are quite interested in the smells Of the other gliders. I have somewhat blocked their views of each others. I have their cages side by side in my main living area.
I will probably be a while before I can get a bigger cage. I will have to think about reintroducing them, it is kind of scary.
Thanks for your input!

Would it be OK to carry them around in their seperate bonding pouches at the same time?

As long as they are not trying to fight through the pouches, you can carry both pairs at the same time in separate pouches. Eventually they will get used to each other's scents and probably will not seem to care if the other gliders are there or not.