Ummm Kissed, .... the count is up to 951 rescues ....... of the reported homes, not all homes are reporting in... I'll have to update that count for you....
ANBO94, okay this is going to be a 'really long post'!
Even girls in one cage together, sisters or not.... one WILL be a more dominant. Sounds like you have dominance issues, and Hugs is right, it "could" be over food, or something else. I think you may be starving them, myself. And when I say "starving" them, I mean starving them of the foods and the nutrition that these type of pets need. How do you measure the ratios?? Do you measure the ratios? Have you looked at the ingredients and each drop they eat to discover the ratios? When I say 'ratios', do you know what I mean?
PLEASE, do your glider a favor and
READ this post.
I would like to tell you just a couple of things;
Foremost, your diet for this type of exotic pet is not a proven diet, nor is it in any way healthy for a sugar glider nutritionally. Which many others have already told you. The ratios are what you want to consider to feed a healthy diet; when I say 'ratios', I mean the Ca:Ph balance of the Overall diet, which is
everything your gliders ingest throughout every day of their lives, and this is what will dictate their long term health.
Okay a quick explanation for you (and I have typed this 'til my fingers are about to fall off, but I'll type it all out again, just for you):
When we talk about “proven diets” on Glider knowledgeable websites, we are talking about a diet comprised of many things; protein, fruits, veggies, calcium, other vitamins and an acceptable amount of phosphorus, also one that has been fed to gliders and has shown over the years to be healthy for your "captive" sugar glider. Phosphorus can be found in lots of different foods, but the "balance" of the Calcium and Phosphorus is what is SO VERY IMPORTANT.
For every gram of phosphorus ingested in a diet, the body must match that with another gram of calcium before the phosphorus can be absorbed through the intestinal wall into the bloodstream. If the required calcium is not available from the diet, the body will obtain it from wherever it can---such as from the storage depots in the bones. In other words, you don’t want calcium being removed from and decreasing bone integrity, which causes a bone degrading disease called HLP or Hind Leg Paralysis.
This is where the whole idea of calcium-phosphorus ratios comes in. The purpose of calculating such a ratio is to make sure that for every gram of phosphorus you're feeding, you're feeding AT LEAST an equal amount of calcium (a 1:1 ratio or better), so that calcium isn't being continually mobilized from bones. The ideal levels are between 1.2 to 2 parts calcium to 1 part phosphorus. BML is 2:1.
Gliders in the U.S. are not in their native environment, and we (in the U.S.) cannot give the nutrients they receive in the wild. Another glider lover named Bourbon, and a Zoologist Nutritionalist researched to get a diet as close as possible to what is fed to the captive gliders in zoos in Australia, and did so with much success, using products found here in the U.S. This diet is called the BML (Bourbon's Modified Leadbeaters)Diet. The original Leadbeaters diet contains High Protein Baby food that is available ONLY in some countries including Australia, but is no longer available here in the U.S., so Bourbon and the zoologist nutritionalist put together a comparable diet for us to feed our U.S. gliders.... Bourbon's gliders have been on BML for 10 plus years (Baybe is 14 years old now) and all of her gliders have strived and are very happy and healthy.
There are other proven diets but when I say proven, you must consider the nutritional value of EVERYTHING that you feed.... the proteins, fruits, veggies and even the insects.
Also, when you just start adding calcium to their diet, please know that too much is just as bad as not enough. Too much calcium can harden their liver and is very hard on their little kidneys, you won’t see the damage, due to the damage being internal. So I would definitely re-think the diet you are feeding. How do you measure the calcium and the vitamins? This is another one of my concerns with your diet.
Also, I wanted to tell you that hard pellets or hard crunchy cat food type foods or reptile iguana foods, or bird foods can cause lots of problems for your suggies, they could scratch the gums or mouth and cause an abscess (infection) which is that similar to the symptoms of Lumpy Jaw, and lead to more serious problems including death, after a huge cost to you by Veterinary care, and ultimate slow death. Gliders are sap suckers and extract the liquids from the foods that they eat, spitting out the pulp and solid.
The dietary items that you listed are not the balance that you need for your suggies.
I understand and I know your intentions are very noble and worthy, but you need to understand that we have been caring for and posting information about gliders here for a long time, with the intention to educate the glider lovers out there as to the best care for them for their long term health.
I am seriously afraid for your glider and also that your glider may become very ill, and then, you know what? You won't be able to say, "I did my best", because I'm telling you RIGHT NOW, You aren't. My name is Cy Horne (Cycy on many boards). Ask about me on any of the big boards, they all know me.
I don't care much for what your vet has to say. Being an exotic vet, he/she may not include the exotic care of a glider. I have two vets, both specialize in exotics, one is glider friendly and knowledgeable, and the other just knows birds and reptiles, but I'm working on her. You start working on yours, and maybe he/she WILL learn a thing or two to help all the gliders. Your gliders.
I hope that you don't take this post as an insult, I commend you for your wonderful welcome of these sugar gliders into your home, but I am trying to point you in the right direction for you to care for your beloved little gliders, just as everyone else has been attempting to do.
Another little thing I wanted to vent to you; (And I say this for myself, too!!):
Unless you, your vet (or even myself) are educated nutritionalists, or Sugar Glider anatomists, (which there are very few out there), it's best to stick to one of the proven diets, just like I do. Not the one your vet implies to be proven, and that's not just my opinion, but it's a fact.